Mui Ne, Binh Thuan, Vietnam
July 04, 2014
As per my last entry we didn’t heed the advice given by the ‘Easy Rider’ lads of staying another night nor their alternative route of the busier faster highway down to the coast. We left the crazy house about 2pm and filled Dora up with petrol and hit the mountain road back down out of Dalat. It was a nice start. Cool air rushing past us as we weaved our way down the mountainside and back towards the smaller town we had passed when we entered Dalat a few days ago. Once at the town we swung a left towards the East and settled into some fairly average boring roads for the next 45 minutes.
Eventually we hit another junction and took the left fork away from the busier road that the ‘Easy Rider’ guys wanted us to take and we headed off down some rough country tracks and some nice winding stretches of quiet tarmac. It was really nice. Similar to what we had experienced in the North and the West near the Laos border. Tiny little villages at times with some of the most excited children we have come across shouting and waving at you like lunatics. I love this side of Vietnam. The quiet rural places that are really only accessible if you have your own transport. There really is nothing quite like that experience of freedom.
With big grins on our faces we climbed a little higher into yet more hills and then rounded a couple of corners before I slowed the bike to a halt and we both sat there in silence for several seconds. We had suddenly arrived at the top of a massively high peak that looked out across the East of Vietnam towards the coast somewhere in the far distance out of sight. Other peaks and hills dotted about with clouds nestling in between them. Steam rising from the forested terrain and a massive stretch of flat land that disappeared as far as the eye could see in to the horizon.
I have seen nothing like it before. It was truly jaw dropping. To the point where you feel a little choked and in awe of natures beauty. This was easily the best view I have come across on my travels. The photos I took do not do any of it justice in the slightest as the scale and impact of the place does not translate from reality into a picture. Why the ‘Easy Rider’ guys wanted to steer us off down some boring fast highway is beyond me. If I was them I would have been demanding that people went this way solely for this sight alone. Why this place wasn’t on the Top Gear lads route I do not know but it was simply unmissable.
We looked where to park up and passed a few other Western lads who were also traveling on bikes parked up and taking the view in. As I slowed up and nodded hello the lads just blanked me and looked away. Hmm not very social of them. Twenty yards further down the road were a local couple parked up with their scooter having an improvised BBQ and taking in the view. They called us over and invited us to join them for some BBQ Tiger prawns. What a world of difference and generosity from the locals. Unbelievable. So as it would be rude to refuse we sat down and shared some prawns cooked over a rough log fire with a lime and chili dip. It was delicious. Sat looking out for miles around with some amazing food and very nice company. We didn’t actually want to leave the place the view was that good you could have easily camped there and woke up to catch what I imagine would be a very impressive sunrise from the coast. But as we had no tent and time was pressing we had to crack on so finished our prawns gave our thanks and bid our farewells. Off down the winding road it was.
The ride down was beautiful. we passed one truck and two other bikes in the space of an hour. I had turned the engine off as well to save the petrol and it added to the experience as we glided down silent and peacefully round the winding roads. The road leveled out and we were back to some dirt type tracks passing through small villages. Eventually that gave way to tarmac again and we picked up some good speed covering ground at a rapid rate with a beautiful view back to the mountains we had descended through. After not too long we hit the notorious Highway 1 road again and hopped on it for all of 100 yards before taking a left towards the coast and hopefully on to Mui Ne.
At this point the road changed dramatically. This was pristine brand new super smooth tarmac. It was glorious. I cranked the throttle up and we sped along at a rapid rate. Gliding effortlessly round bends and powering down the straights. It was great fun and although the signs said we still had 50km to go to reach Mui Ne and the sun was setting behind us we felt good and knew we would make it no problem. Half an hour later we hit the coast and swung South towards the town.
We got a little lost entering the town. We ended up in a random resort somehow and then were suddenly plunged into darkness as we found the small town of Mui Nei. There was a power cut and the town was a total blackout other than the odd place to eat with a few candles lit. We grabbed a bit food and a beer and went off in search for somewhere to stay.
It took a while. I had no phone battery left so we randomly road around the town in the pitch black unable to see anything really let alone if it was somewhere to stay or not. All the places to stay are actually out of town on a strip along the beach South of Mui Nei. Finally we hit that strip and found a good cheap and clean place to settle into before grabbing some food and drinks and crashing for the night. An absolutely brilliant day with some astounding riding, views and hospitality. We couldn’t have asked for any more.
