Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Made's amazing hospitality by letting us stay at his apartment was too good to turn down. He was such an amazing host and just a very nice guy. We can't thank him enough for his very kind generosity, it was truly heart warming to experience. If your ever in Ubud please call in to Warung Muja and say hi to Made. You can also enjoy some of the cheapest food and drinks in town there along with some live music and friendly locals.
As a result we ended up staying at his place for 8 days, much longer than we had originally planned on being in Ubud for. Sometimes you just have to take things as they come and when traveling you are gifted the luxury of being able to to do exactly that. Stay in the places you like for longer and move on from the places you don't like as much to pastures new.
The 8 days we spent as Made's guests were very nice and relaxed indeed. We ate loads of great food.
Great food is everywhere in Bali, in Ubud even more so. Ubud is kind of the artistic and cultural beating heart of the island and has been for decades now. Many an artist, wood carver or culinary genius has gravitated to Ubud. It makes for a wonderful and sensory experience. As I mentioned in my last post, the centre is now awash with tour buses, cheap trinkets and post cards. But it's also interwoven with up market unique jewelers, chic little cafe's and Warung's and local designer boutiques. Venture a little further out of the town and that is where you will find that the new trend setters have set up their shops and eateries.
We enjoyed so much good food at little basic but stylish Warung's and family ran places that were both unique and inexpensive. Pork Rendang noodle soup, Gado Gado, Nasi Ayam Campur. We ate so well and didn't spend more than £4.00 between us on any meal, usually it was a lot less than £4.
Unfortunately I took ill for a couple days. Terrible joint and back pain, cramping stomach, constipation, fatigue. Most likely just a bug or something as 2 days rest with nothing but water and I as right as rain again. Other than those 2 days we headed out on the bike every day. Most days with nowhere in mind. We would just head off and get lost somewhere up little back roads. I love exploring like this. The sense of freedom that you get from having your own transport is brilliant and well recommended when your traveling.
We visited the usual rice terraces at Tegallelang. They are very popular and touristy but they are stunning and worth checking out if your here. We also checked out a couple of waterfalls not too far from Ubud that we had pinned on a map. Goa Rang Reng and Tibumana waterfalls were decent enough. The usual 15,000 IDR (90p) local tourist charge applied at each which we don't mind paying and they were nice places to cool off in if not a little over crowded. However the best place we came across, as is usually the case, was by complete chance when we headed off on the bike for a random ride one day.
We rode North East out of Ubud. Just following our noses really and turning down whatever little road looked interesting at the time. We passed a couple of celebrations in small villages which was nice to see as always. The usual happy smiles and hellos from the locals. People asking where your from and where your going. It's beautiful how friendly and welcoming the people here are (Made being a great example!).
After about an hours riding, randomly up into some hills we decided to head back towards Ubud to catch sunset. We took another random route on the way back down and were heading don some narrow little winding road when Dani spotted a small sign for a waterfall called Tangkup Timbul. It wasn't one we have heard of or read about anywhere and it certainly seemed off the beaten track so naturally we turned off to check it out.
It was so quiet where we were. We hadn't seen anyone for maybe 20 minutes anyway and didn't pass anyone else as we bounced our way down a dirt track before arriving at a small hand written sign saying to park here for the waterfall. With the bike parked up we trotted down a small dirt track for another 10 minutes with beautiful peaceful rice terraces below us to the left.
Eventually we could see some small temples and flags coming into view round the corner until eventually this beautiful scene unfolded in front of us.
It was a little surreal. Like some sort of Balinese version of The Shire set on an outcrop in a valley. It was stunningly beautiful in a cute kind of way.
The whole area was impeccably landscaped. Little hand crafted stone steps curling around a higher grassy mound to a small temple atop. A few geese waddling about next to a serene little stream gurgling it's way through the middle of the scene. Little stepping stones to cross to a tiny island in a small pond where there was a beautifully crafted wooden table where there sat a signing in book for guests. What was this place?
We were greeted by Agu, the lady who lives here and who has crafted this beautifully unique landscape. She chatted with us for a while then guided us down yet more hand crafted steps to the bottom of the valley where the river runs through. Just 5 minutes walk through some lush river bed jungle, crossing several small bamboo bridges and we arrived at the waterfall.
It was about 4pm and we were only the second visitors who had been to the waterfall today. Do you want to know the best thing? There wasn't even a set entry fee like the other more popular waterfalls. Agu tends to and improves the garden and surroundings every day and all she asks for is a donation. Whatever you feel it is worth to you, with no pressure to contribute at all. Needless to say we left more than we are charged at the popular waterfalls in the area. The amount of work and time she must have invested into the place is mind boggling.
Once she had guided us to the waterfall she headed back to her garden and left us alone in peace. The fall although not big or maybe as striking as some of the other falls in Bali was probably more beautiful than most we have seen. Purely due to it's peaceful nature given that we were the only ones there. We spent maybe an hour there, just sat, in this beautiful little space on our own among nature. So tranquil.
Eventually though we needed to head back up. Time was getting on and I don't like riding in the dark if I can help it. There are far too many pot holes and potential hazards on the roads here so it's best to avoid riding in the dark if you can.
Having signed the guest book and with our donation popped in the box we reluctantly headed back to the scooter after having one last roam around the gardens. Agu really has done a beautiful job here and I highly recommend checking it out if you get the chance. I guarantee you wont regret it.
It's been a great 10 days or so we have now spent exploring the heart of Bali with Ubud as our base. Made said we could stay another week at his place if we wanted to as his long term guests had still not arrived. Such a beautiful and kind offer, and so very tempting to take him up on it. But we need to start pushing on. We have about 6 weeks left on our Indonesian Visa and we are determined to go and explore some new places during this trip. It's time to move on and leave Ubud again for another time.
